Dramatic Maui coastline where green cliffs meet the ocean

Yogafy with Ry · A north shore companion

The Maui Guide

Everything we've learned about this island, kept current and shared with love. Come find your own version of it.

Come with an open heart, and a light footprint.

Maui is still healing. The 2023 fires took so much from Lahaina and West Maui, and those communities are rebuilding with real care. The island welcomes you, and the kindest thing a visitor can do is show up gently. Spend your time and money with local people, keep clear of the Lahaina burn zone, and treat every beach, trail and town as someone's home. Our north shore is fully open and ready for you.

A Hawaiian green sea turtle resting on the sand at Hoʻokipa BeachHoʻokipa · the north shore

First things

Getting here, and getting around.

You'll fly into Kahului Airport (OGG), the island's main gateway. From there it's a short, pretty drive to the north shore and the town of Paia.

Rent a car. This is the one thing we'd insist on. Public transit is thin out here and doesn't reach the quiet corners you'll want to find. Every major rental company has a desk at the airport, and there are local budget outfits too. Book early, especially around the retreat dates.

Once you have wheels, the whole island opens up. Fill the tank, download an offline map, and give yourself room to get a little lost.

The water

North shore beaches.

The coast right by the studio is wild and rugged, and not for swimming. These are the calmer, kinder stretches, listed roughly as you'd reach them from Paia.

Baldwin Beach ParkOur pick

A long, wide, white-sand beach and a favorite with local families. Lifeguards, showers, picnic tables, and calm protected pools at both ends. Easy and welcoming.

Baby BeachCalm swim

A protected lagoon just before Paia, sheltered by a reef. Gentle and shallow, lovely for an easy float or a slow lap. Perfect when the ocean is rough elsewhere.

Hoʻokipa BeachTurtles · surf

Famous for windsurfing and, most evenings, Hawaiian green sea turtles resting on the sand. The water is usually rough, with a protected swim area on the pavilion side. A state park with restrooms.

Tavares BeachLocal secret

A small crescent in Kuau, off most tourists' radar. Good for swimming and snorkeling on calm days. Unmarked and easy to miss. Look for the house with the blue tile roof.

Paia BayExperienced

Right in town and loved by surfers and bodyboarders. Beautiful to sit at, but mind the rip current in winter. Better for watching than swimming when the surf is up.

The wild

Waterfalls, valleys and volcano.

A few of these now take a little planning. The island started asking visitors to reserve ahead, which keeps these places quiet and cared for. Book early and it's easy.

A waterfall tumbling through the Maui jungle
Waterfalls along the road to Hana
Sunrise above a sea of clouds at the summit of Haleakalā
Sunrise above the clouds at Haleakalā
Twin FallsGo early

The closest falls to the studio, a short walk in from the lot. Parking is $10, cash, first come with only about 55 spots, and no rideshare or walk-ins. Come early before practice or later in the day.

The Road to HanaA whole day

The island's great drive. Sixty-four miles, fifty-nine bridges, and a waterfall around nearly every bend. It's the journey, not the end, so leave by 7am and don't try to see it all. If you want to stop at Waiʻānapanapa's black-sand beach, reserve ahead. Non-residents need a booking, up to 30 days out.

Haleakalā at SunriseReserve · layers

Watching the sun come up above the clouds from a 10,000-foot crater is unforgettable. A sunrise reservation is required (the 3 to 7am window, booked up to 60 days ahead), it's a 1.5-hour drive up, and it gets genuinely cold. Bring layers and a flashlight.

ʻĪao ValleyCheck ahead

An easy paved walk to the emerald ʻĪao Needle, deep in a lush valley. Non-residents now reserve ahead. Worth a quick check that it has reopened after its 2026 safety closure before you drive over.

A path winding through the lush jungle along the road to Hana

The table

Where we eat in Paia.

Small town, big flavors. Everything here is a short stroll or drive from the studio, and all of it is open and beloved as of this year.

Café des AmisOur dinner

A tucked-away courtyard serving Mediterranean and Indian plates, with live music some nights. This is where we gather the whole group for our long retreat dinner. Open daily, noon to evening.

Mama's Fish House$$$$ · reserve

A true island landmark, oceanfront, with Hawaiian seafood and Polynesian charm. The spot for one really special evening. Reservations go fast, so book as far ahead as you can. People reserve months out.

Paia Fish MarketCasual

Communal picnic tables, fish burgers, and generous plate lunches. Easy, tasty, and always busy for a reason.

Island Fresh CaféOrganic

Sustainable, organic breakfast and lunch in a converted old train station. Bowls, smoothies, and good coffee.

Paia BowlsMornings

Açaí bowls, smoothies and coffee steps from Paia Bay, opened by two local big-wave surfers. A lovely way to start a beach day.

Paia Bay Coffee & BarLive music

An open-air spot for morning coffee, easy meals, live music and a cold drink after the sun goes down.

Mana FoodsThe hub

The natural grocery where the whole town passes through. Do your shopping, grab from the deli, and do a little people-watching while you're at it.

The fine print, kindly

A few things worth knowing.

Reserve the big sights

Haleakalā sunrise, Waiʻānapanapa and ʻĪao Valley all need a booking now. Sort them the week you arrive, or sooner.

Island time is real

Roads are slow and winding on purpose. Leave early, drive gently, and let the pace of the place set yours.

Some cash helps

Little lots like Twin Falls take cash, and a few local spots prefer it. Keep a bit tucked in the glovebox.

Respect the ocean

North shore surf can be strong. If a beach looks rough, it is. Swim where it's protected and when in doubt, sit it out.

Bring layers up high

The summit dips below freezing before dawn even in spring. Warm layers and a flashlight make sunrise magic instead of miserable.

Snorkel gear is easy

Boss Frog's rents affordable snorkel sets around the island. The calmest snorkeling is on the south and west sides.

Palm trees silhouetted against a Maui sunset over the oceanUntil next time

Can't find something? Just ask.

This guide grows every year. If there's something you're wondering about, or a place you fall in love with, tell us. We'd love to hear it.

Yogafy with Ry
A living Maui guide from Ryan Leier and One Yoga · Kept current for {{year}}
Location photography via Unsplash, used under the free Unsplash License